Springtime in New Mexico, Part III: Landscapes & Caverns

Driving across the Great Southern Plains under an overcast sky, we felt a little like we were a snow globe: The sky is an impervious dome overhead and, even at 85 miles an hour, you seem to go nowhere. I found the landscape of southeastern New Mexico hypnotic yet slightly unnerving. With no trees for miles and miles, it’s clearly no place to break down in August…but it’s easy to understand why aliens might aim for such a wide landing space.

The sky turned from ash to ebony as we arrived at our Carlsbad motel just after 9:00 p.m. After a terrific green chile-chicken-alfredo, we slept soundly in our clean, quiet room.

Black bird in tree

The crooner I swooned for.

I awoke in the early morning to the lovely song of an unknown black bird with Dr. Suessian tail feathers. My kids made fun of me trying to get a recording of its song, but I had to admit defeat in the interest of time. Carlsbad Caverns National Park was waiting!

Purple flowers called Texas moubnntain laurel

A pop of color from the Texas Mountain Laurel was a welcome sight.

Growing up, I had often heard about the Caverns, but with a widowed mother with a fear of driving, there was no way I’d ever see them. We ventured to Las Cruces on a fairly regular basis to see my mom’s parents and brother, but because my mother first learned to drive on an abandoned airstrip in her early 20s, a straight shot down I-25 from Denver was all we were going to get. Angling to the left across unknown turf was not gonna happen.

My husband had planned everything (he’d even made a slideshow to psych us up for the trip), so we pulled into the visitor center ready to spend a day 750 feet underground. Still, nothing had prepared me for the fascinating, other-worldly experience of descending into a dimly lit cave the size of 14 football fields. I’m a slightly rabid fan of the National Park Service, but wow! I felt like I had entered some fairy tale world. This is an experience you can’t really capture on camera–my favorite kind.

Natural entrance to Carlsbad Caverns

Sure, we’ll just walk down hundreds of feet into the dark and not even think about the giant hill suspended over our heads! Earthquakes aren’t a thing here, right?

curtain of stalactites resembling a baleen plate of bristles

The Whale’s Mouth, the first major formation you see on the way down.

Lacy stalactites. Whose says they can't be sexy?

Lacy stalactites. Who says they can’t be elegant?

Millions of years in the making. I think they came out pretty good!

Millions of years in the making. I think they came out pretty good!

closeup of stalagmite

Zooming in on a huge formation, I see what looks like trees from an ancient Chinese painting. Or creepy Edvard Munch-type faces, depending on where you focus (top right, green part).

Large stalagmite backlit with golden light

The lighting in the cavern is very well done. The cave is pitch black, but the collective effect of the specialized lighting is a dim atmosphere punctuated by golden light. It felt like we were walking inside a beautiful, golden Christmas ornament.

DSC_0050 (2)

So many colors, so much time to form them.

A view across the a portion of what's known as "The Big Room," several thousand square feet of the underground cavern. There are 700 caves in the park, but the NPS has only developed three of them for public visits.

View across a portion of “The Big Room,” several thousand square feet of the main underground cavern. There are 700 caves in the park, but the NPS has only developed three for public visits.

Believe it or not, there’s an elevator inside the cavern from the surface to an actual lunchroom (with bathrooms–yay!). No way in heck would I ever climb into an elevator lodged in a 750-foot tube bored through solid rock, but it’s an option for those needing accessibility (or the merely exhausted). It had broken the day before–with people inside. After a daring rescue, everyone emerged “in good spirits” and life went on (without elevator service). We passed many people whose prospects of climbing back out without incident looked uncertain, including some very pregnant mothers. Being fit and impatient, we decided to race back up the steep incline. Awesome workout I’d gladly do again!

view of entrance to cave, taken from inside the cave

Pretty sure that sunlight is gonna burn our eyes when we get there.

After a full day and some incredible memories, we reluctantly headed north to Taos. We really wanted to stay until twilight to see the 200,000 to 500,ooo bats that roost in the cave make their glorious nightly exit, but we had six hours of driving ahead of us. We piled into the car and I got out my camera. Time for some landscape shots!

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Springtime in New Mexico, Part II: Roswell, Home of the Weirdos

Between Santa Fe and Roswell you pass through a few towns the sun and the economy have not treated well. Exhibit A:

Try our fried rat with cockroach gravy!

Today’s special: Disappoint with a side of tragedy. Hankies extra.

Just when your brain is starting to go numb, the lime-green oasis of Roswell springs up, offering alien t-shirts, mugs, keychains, street “art,” DVDs, snow globes, bumper stickers, spaceships, and more. Much more. Ok, too much more.

Because aliens.

Because aliens.

Alien in chains

Italian alien? Ay, whatsamatteryou?

Italian alien? “Ay, whatsamatteryou?”

I like a frivolous dive into kitsch as much as anyone, and Roswell did not disappoint. If you don’t know the story of Roswell, here’s a summary of how a small town with not a whole lot going on suddenly found itself the center of attention in 1947 when a rancher found a bunch of trash in his fields. He called the cops and someone decided an alien spacecraft had crash-landed. The Air Force: “Nope, that was our weather balloon.” Enter the conspiracy theorists, marketers, hack writers, and eventually, by 1980, an army of t-shirt silkscreeners and wood carvers. The story goes that aliens were found, then hidden, and locals were harshly met with the full force of US governmental obstruction. People still believe that the government has been collaborating with aliens ever since, though I’m not sure on what or why. There are more details, but I have little attention span for people in foil hats. Instead, I present to you the earnest capitalist ambitions of a small town still milking that story of a vast government coverup 70 years later.

Why yes, there IS a UFO Museum. Why do you ask?

No words. Wait...uh, nope.

No words. Wait. Um…nope.

Roswell...come for the aliens, stay for the alien wedding.

Roswell…come for the aliens, stay for the alien wedding.

They are everywhere...watching you...glowing in the dark.

They are everywhere…watching you…glowing in the dark.

What could possibly go wrong?

What could possibly go wrong?

books from Roswell, New Mexico

Why settle for one conspiracy theory when you can have them all?

And just in case aliens aren’t your thing, there’s this shop:

Something for everyone!

Something for everyone!

Next up: Wide open spaces and destination Carlsbad. It’s about to get cavernous….

 

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Springtime in New Mexico, Part I: Santa Fe

This spring break my family traveled to New Mexico to see the Carlsbad Caverns. I LOVE the National Park Service and all the wonders they steward, so I’m always dragging the fam off to “look at more rocks and trees,” as they put it. We saw (parts of) Santa Fe, Roswell, Carlsbad, Taos, and Cimarron Canyon in 4 days. Lots of driving, but there is nothing quite like the Great American Road Trip. We love a sort-of agenda with no fixed schedule and lots of time to talk and gawk. I’m a fan of wide open spaces that invite your stare, demand your wonder, and lovingly empty your mind. It’s a marvelous planet.

The pictures say more, so here you go:

colorful stack of Native American blankets

Colors of Santa Fe I

Glass flowers in bright colors

Colors of Santa Fe II

Hurrying down a street in the downtown art district, I just happened to glance down and who do I find on the Santa Fe Artists’ Walk of Fame?

Willa Cather plaque on Santa Fe art walk

I thought it was pretty cool that a plum tree decided to bless Willa with a blossom.

We stayed at the Inn at Loretto, adjacent to the Loretto Chapel, with it’s famous Miracle Staircase. Legend has it, the staircase was built by a mysterious stranger who came out of nowhere, built the staircase with NO center pole (defying gravity and calculating some outrageous math), then disappeared without asking for payment. The Sisters of Loretto had been praying to St. Joseph for help when this man appeared and offered to do the work. When he left they speculated that it was St. Joseph himself who had built the staircase.

Catholic Loretto Chapel

The Loretto Chapel

Spiral staircase made of wood

The Miracle Staircase at Loretto Chapel in Santa Fe, New Mexico

The stained glass windows were made in France.

Stained glass window

Open wide and say “Awwww….”

St. Joseph and baby Jesus

St. Joseph was a good dad.

Jesus statue

Jesus looking pretty white….

Mary too.

Mary too.

white altar

The altar, featuring some amazing lighting.

We of course visited the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum. Here are my pics from that exhibit, though evidently my favorite O’Keeffe paintings  still dwell in other museums.

White Rose

White Rose

 

Horse skull with white rose

Horse skull with white rose

My two favorites from this museum:

Clamshell with seaweed painting by G. O'Keefe

Clamshell with seaweed. This is only about 10×12″ but oh so powerful.

Cherry Blossoms. An early work that shows her classic training but also the woman about to take off to find her own style and truth...and therefore beauty. Go, Georgia, go!

Cherry Blossoms. An early work that shows her classic training but also the woman about to take off to find her own style and truth…and therefore beauty. Go, Georgia, go!

As we were leaving, I had to stop and stare for quite some time at The Barns at Lake George. Her painting technique of sharp edges of paint showing intense contrasts between light and dark or different colors is less obvious here, but the main barn looked almost 3D. I had to get very close to see how thick the paint was and I darn near fell into a trance. There’s some sort of compulsion there that almost scared me.

The Barns at Lake George

The Barns at Lake George

Last, we visited the famous St. Francis of Assissi Cathedral, with its impressive rose window and baptismal font.

rose window

Rose Window, St. Francis Cathedral

Stained glass window of St. Jacob

St. Jacob with some mad blue lighting going on behind him. The wind was blowing and the shadows of the trees made it look like the aurora borealis was his halo.

vaulted ceiling and baptismal font

Cathedral interior

I was raised Catholic, so I can’t resist lighting a candle for a devotional, but that cathedral has the scariest bloody Jesus I’ve ever seen in my life. Believe me, I’ve seen plenty of bleeding Christs in various stages of agony, but never have I seen one with actual hair! The ghoulish tint to his skin and jagged rips in his flesh were over the top as well. I wanted to take a picture, but that seemed even creepier, so I said my prayers, stared long enough to inspire a few nightmares, then mozied on.

Evidence of more right-handed people than south paws in this world.

Evidence of more right-handed people than south paws in this world.

A few shops later and we were ready to hit the road for Carlsbad and the Caverns, with a curious stop in the freaky town of Roswell. To be continued….

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